Kojic Monooleate Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs) for Enhanced Sunscreen Formulation: Optimisation via Response Surface Methodology
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.54987/jobimb.v14i1.822Keywords:
Nanostructured lipid carriers, Kojic monooleate, Sunscreen formulation, Tyrosinase inhibition, Response Surface MethodologyAbstract
Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) are promising topical delivery systems for improving the dispersion and formulation performance of lipophilic cosmeceutical actives. Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure contributes to photoageing and hyperpigmentation, creating a demand for multifunctional sunscreen formulations that provide photoprotection together with tyrosinase inhibition. This study aimed to formulate and optimise a kojic monooleate (KMO)-containing NLC sunscreen using sun protection factor (SPF) as the primary optimisation response. KMO was incorporated as a tyrosinase-inhibitory active together with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and avobenzone as UV filters. NLCs were prepared by bath ultrasonication followed by high-shear homogenisation, and a D-optimal response surface methodology was applied to optimise the formulation. Analysis of variance demonstrated that the quadratic model was significant (F = 196.33, p < 0.05) with a non-significant lack of fit, indicating good model predictability. The optimised formulation achieved an in vitro SPF of 38.88, a mean particle size of 170.10 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.326 and a pH of 4.88. No visible phase separation was observed after centrifugation, whereas freeze–thaw cycling increased particle size and polydispersity index, indicating reduced colloidal stability under thermal stress. The optimised formulation also exhibited acceptable spreadability and 78.08% mushroom tyrosinase inhibition at 250 µg/mL. These findings provide preliminary evidence supporting the potential of KMO-containing NLCs as SPF-oriented multifunctional sunscreen formulations. However, further evaluation of UVA protection, critical wavelength, photostability, comprehensive nanoparticle characterisation and cell-based melanogenesis is required before broad-spectrum photoprotection and biological depigmenting efficacy can be established.
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